The future of luxury goods: the Bain study (II)

This is the second of two posts on the latest Bain report on luxury goods.  Here’s a link to the first.

the recent past

If you were to characterize the dominant consumer of luxury goods over the past thirty years, the description would be:

–older

–female

–European or Japanese.

In all likelihood, she would have done the bulk of her spending in a department store.

That’s starting to change.

For a long time, Japan was considered the holy grail of luxury retailing.  A much larger segment of the population there than elsewhere was interested in luxury goods.  Customers wanted the highest quality (read: most expensive).  They purchased often and were relatively insensitive to price.  In fact, luxury retailers routinely set their Japanese retail prices 40% above the European level.

For some years, however, the Japanese luxury star has been waning.  Why?  The market may finally be saturated.  Twenty years of weak economic performance may have robbed consumers of the means to afford luxury goods.  Younger Japanese are clearly not interested in emulating their elders in this–or in much of anything else, for that matter.  In any event, Japanese luxury retailers, whose business was stagnating beforehand, were especially hard hit during the recession.  Business hasn’t been recovering, nor is it expected to.

Europe, although it declined less than the US in 2009, has been a laggard in recovery during 2010.  Damage from toxic financial instruments, questions about the stability of the EU and collective decision among countries to take the path of fiscal austerity as the road to recovery.

In the US, in contrast, the rebound has been surprisingly strong.

China‘s luxury goods consumption grew by 20% during the recession and has accelerated to what Bain estimates to be a 30% advance in 2010.

the new face of luxury…

…is:

–younger

–male

–Chinese.

He is more likely to shop in a brand-owned shop at home, or in Macau or Hong Kong.  That way he is assured the merchandise isn’t counterfeit.  He is, I think, more apt to travel to Europe than the US because the States makes it hard for him to get a visa.  But he’ll do luxury shopping while on vacation, since the prices are much lower.

elements of growth

outlet stores

Long a staple in the US, outlet stores have been expanding rapidly in Europe in recent years.  They’re just about to hit Asian shores as well.  Outlets sell three types of merchandise:

–overstocks,

–seconds and

–products made specifically to be sold in outlets, typically a lower standard of quality than the branded goods sold in front-line company shops or in department stores.

Bain estimates that outlet sales will be up by €2.2 billion ($3.1 billion) vs. 2008 results, at €8.2 billion ($11.5 billion), or just under 5% of total luxury sales.

online

Bain estimates that luxury sales on the internet are growing at about 20% a year.  The consultancy thinks online revenues will total €4.2 billion ($5.9 billion) in 2010, and will comprise about 2.5% of all luxury goods sales.

That’s €1.2 billion ($1.7 billion) ahead of the 2008 level.  The largest part of the increase from two years ago (€700 million) comes from off-price business done on “private sale” websites.  These sites–like Gilt Groupe, RueLaLa or Buy VIP–now account for 30% of online revenues, up from nothing three years ago.

company-owned stores

Distribution of global luxury goods is gradually shifting from indirect to company-owned stores.  Branded retail stores will likely account for 27% of total sales this year, up from 23% just two years ago–a result of increasing new store openings and same store sales growth that’s much faster than the department store channel’s.  At the very least, the luxury goods manufacturers are picking up the wholesale to retail markup–less their costs, of course.  And it’s possible that the larger number of sales locations is expanding the overall market, as well.

China

Bain puts China’s luxury goods purchases at €9.2 billion ($12.9 billion) for this year.  That’s €3.3 billion ($4.6 billion) more than in 2008.  Add €8.3 billion ($11.6 billion) from the combination of Hong Kong, Taiwan and Macau, and “Greater China” accounts for €17.5 billion in luxury sales.  That would be good for third place among individual countries, just a tad below Japan, whose luxury goods sales are projected to be unchanged at €18 billion ($25.2 billion) this year.

investment implications Continue reading

Japan’s curious currency intervention

This is an update on my recent post about the sharply appreciating yen.

About a week ago, the Bank of Japan intervened in the currency markets.  It reportedly spent about $20 billion in a (so far) successful attempt to depress the value of the yen against the US dollar.  And as the dollar began to give back some of its 4% gain against the Japanese currency this past week, in response to the Fed’s indication it hasn’t ruled out further quantitative money easing, the BOJ is hinting it may not be done.

Experience and financial theory both tell us that intervention can do no more than buy a little time for a country to implement structural change.  But Japan shows no signs, to me anyway, of wanting to reverse its stance that preserving a traditional social order is its preferred alternative, even if it involves economic senescence.  So the money spent on currency intervention is ultimately wasted.  The BOJ certainly knows this.

The move wins Tokyo no friends in Washington, which is trying to pressure China into allowing the renminbi to rise.

Why intervene, then?  I think it’s an issue of partisan politics.  The Democratic Party of Japan was swept into office last year in a mandate for change from the corrupt money politics practiced by the Liberal Democrats. This shows voters’ extreme dissatisfaction with the LDP, since one of the DPJ’s leading lights is Ichiro Ozawa, who has long been associated with back-room money politics.

Having somehow escaped involvement in a recent corruption scandal that forced then-Prime Minister Hatoyama to resign, Ozawa decided to emerge from the shadows and challenge the new PM, Naoto Kan, for leadership of the DPJ.  Ozawa was resoundingly defeated.

I think the intervention was the price Mr. Kan had to pay to sway the votes of JDP party stalwarts in the Ozawa faction.  The timing of the intervention is one reason I’d cite in support of my opinion.  The second is the willingness of the BOJ, an independent body, to go along with an ultimately futile gesture.  However odd the present DPJ government, it’s certainly better than an Ozawa-led one–or a return to the LDP.

The BOJ has supposedly drawn a line in the sand at $1 = ¥ 82.  The parties seeking to push the yen higher are supposedly not the major global commercial banks but Japanese individual margin players.  If so, further substantial intervention may not be needed to maintain the status quo.  After all, the government can always tighten margin requirements.

From an equity investment point of view, however, the fact that the value of the yen is not front-page news shows how far into irrelevance the Japanese economy has fallen.  To my mind, Tokyo is now a special situation market, driven by smaller counterculture” firms.  They actually benefit from a stronger yen.

the sharply rising yen

the rising yen

Since the beginning of April the Japanese yen has risen by about 11% against the dollar.  Over the same time period, the currencies of Europe have  either held even or fallen against the US currency.  So this is not primarily a dollar issue.

At first glance, there doesn’t seem to be much reason for the move.  The domestic Japanese economy is weak.  Export champions continue along their well-worn track of loss of market share to nimbler Korean or Chinese rivals.  Last year’s reform promises from the Democratic Party seem to have had no more permanence than the cherry blossoms of the spring (see my post on the resignation of prime minister Hatoyama for more details).  In fact, with Ozawa loyalist Naoto Kan as the new PM, the sitting government, to my eyes anyway, is looking more and more like a rerun of 1980s-style Liberal Democratic Party administration.

Tokyo is even talking about intervening in the currency markets to stop the yen’s rise.  The just released results of a poll by the BIS illustrates just how futile a notion this is.  The survey reveals that the world currency markets have growth by about a third over the past three years and amounts to $4 trillion worth of trades each day. The ten largest bank participants account for three-quarters of the business.  How can any government compete with this size–much less one so heavily in debt as Tokyo.

So the economy’s dysfunctional–with even modest deflation for the past twenty years.  Interest rates are as close to zero as you can get.  Ordinary citizens are nostalgic for the “golden” days of the early nineteenth century, when Japan was isolated from the rest of the world.  How is this a recipe for a rising currency?  After all, it wasn’t that long ago that these attributes were ones that motivated international speculators to short the yen, not buy it.

As the endaka economy began to crumble as the Bank of Japan raised rates to cool speculative fever, the country chose, for good or for ill, to maintain its traditional way of life rather than to face its economic problems and restructure.  Periodic political attempts to revisit that decision have all failed, the latest being the election of the Democrats last year.  If this analysis is correct, the outstanding characteristic of the Japanese economy is that things just aren’t going to get better any time soon.

Odd as it may seem, I think this is what is attracting currency investors to the yen.

Real short rates in the US are negative; real short rates in Japan, even at zero nominally, are positive because of the country’s chronic deflation.  The only way this difference can express itself is through mild appreciation of the yen against the dollar.

Also, economically the worst is past for the US.  At some point, the domestic economy will become strong enough that the Fed will change its current extraordinarily loose money stance.   Then bond prices will fall.  We don’t have that worry in Japan.

Why now?

What made the currency markets decide to play this idea starting in April?  Maybe it was political developments in Japan.  It certainly shouldn’t have been signs of a slowing economy in the US, since that diminishes the chances of rising rates.

Twenty-five years of watching currency markets as an international equity investor have taught me that the currency markets march to their own drummer and are almost always way ahead of everyone else.  This is a short way of saying I don’t know.

But the political events in Japan were highly predictable.  So I don’t think they can be the reason.  Arguably, then, currency traders may be saying that the recovery in the US may be stronger than domestic markets expect and that rising rates are a more serious concern than we now realize.  That would fly in the face of the consensus, however.  We’ll see.

Chinese mergers and acquisitions in Japan: a new twist

M&A in Japan

From the earliest days of the first Lost Decade (the Nineties) in Japan, sharply lower prices have generated merger and acquisition interest in flat-on-their-backs mid-sized Japanese firms that were both appallingly badly managed and stunningly cheap.

M&A activity in Japan has come in two forms, approaches initiated by domestic investors and those begun by foreigners, mostly value investors from the US.  Both have foundered badly, for somewhat different reasons.

Recently, interest has begun to surface from Chinese companies (see yesterday’s Financial Times) as well.  But their motivations are somewhat different from prior waves of suitors.  My guess is that they will be much more successful than their predecessors–but this will be rather to the sorrow than the joy of investors in the Japanese target names.

the Lost Decade (now fast becoming a Lost Generation) begins

The Japanese stock market bubble began to collapse in late 1989.  Within a year or two, many listed companies were trading at very low price to cash flow multiples, 30%-50% discounts to book value, and in some cases discounts to net working capital or to net cash on the balance sheet.

M&A wave 1:  foreigners

Tokyo appealed to American private equity investors to rescue the worst of the country’s banks.  It did so out of necessity–because banks in Japan were traditionally merely an arm of foreign policy and thus no one in Japan has the requisite turn-around skills.  When the fortunes of these institutions did reverse and foreigners made billions doing so, they also created a political problem.  For one thing, they made the government look bad because it had set such a low entry price.  In addition, the traditional Japanese way of dealing with an embarrassment of riches was to give some of the money back.  The private equity Westerners refused.  So they–and anyone like them–were ostracized from that point on.

British and American portfolio investors also bought shares in Japanese companies that were trading at valuations unheard of for a generation in the West.  After establishing positions, they approached managements with suggestions about operating changes and/or requests that idle cash be dividended back to shareholders.  They were rebuffed.  When they mounted proxy battles, the target’s customers and suppliers bought shares and voted to keep the incumbent management in office.

The government wasn’t an idle spectator in these struggles.  On the one hand, Tokyo informally encouraged the banks to continue to support even the worst credits, thus delaying by many years the “creative destruction” that would ultimately improve the prospects of survivors–and by so doing kept capital in the hands of managements ill-equipped to put it to productive use.  In addition, however, the Diet over the years passed a series of bills that in practice made it impossible for a foreign firm to take control of a Japanese one.

wave 2:  domestic investors

True, friendly mergers within an industry are allowed.  But the fate of domestic investors aiming to reform Japanese business practices is typified by the case of Yoshiaki Murakami, a former trade ministry official who specialized in M&A regulations.  Mr. Murakami had noble ideals.  He wanted to use M&A  put domestic capital into more capable hands.

His first target was Shoei, a kimono maker whose business was in severe decline but which owned extremely valuable real estate in Tokyo.  Mr. Murakami’s plan–he had raised money for a buyout fund on the strength of his trade ministry credentials–was simple (read: naive).  Fuji Bank held a large position in Shoei and, he reasoned, was obliged legally from having taken government bailout money, to sell non-core assets.  Therefore, the bank would be receptive to an approach to buy their shares at a premium.  Also, Canon, the electronics firm, held a significant interest.  Preliminary inquiries suggested it might be willing to sell.  So Mr. Murakami’s fund built up a holding an attempted to take control.

He failed miserably.  After the fact, he told me he had mis-assessed two factors:

–in a form of amakudari (descent from heaven), the heads of Shoei were all retired high-ranking Fuji Bank officers.  Shoei was in effect their pension plan and they had no intention of giving it up.

–the president of Canon vetoed a sale of the company’s stake.  He told Mr. Murakami that Shoei had lent the president’s father money so that he could found Canon.  The president felt he could never face his father again if he had a hand in Shoei’s demise.

What ultimately happened to Mr. Murakami’s crusade?  He was arrested for insider trading, imprisoned and barred from the securities industry.

wave 3:  China

Why do I think the Chinese will be successful in their investments in Japanese companies?  For one thing, unlike previous M&A practitioners, the Chinese don’t want to reform the business practices of firms they are buying stakes in.  For another, they could care less about the stagnant Japanese economy.  What they are dangling in front of their targets in exchange for a stake in the firm is access to the large, and rapidly growing, Chinese market for their wares.

I think it’s a mistake, however, to look at these deals from the perspective of the Japanese firm.  It seems to me Chinese companies are looking for:

–either intellectual property (like brand names) or manufacturing skill that can easily be used in their domestic operations.  I suspect that the Japanese partner will gain little benefit from this transfer.

–having watched the Japanese establishment act for decades to the disadvantage of foreigners in almost any way possible, I think the Chinese also want a big enough stake in the Japanese target that they can’t easily be shaken loose–through, say, a heavily dilutive merger with another Japanese company.

Chinese presence in Japan will be interesting to watch.  From an investment perspective, it seems to me the only way to make money from developments will be through owning the Japanese side.

Chinese renminbi unpegged from the US$: what it means

what China is doing

Over the weekend, the People’s Bank of China announced that it was changing its policy of closely managing its currency to mimic the movements of the US$.

From now on the renminbi will be linked instead to a basket of currencies representing China’s major trading partners, the largest of whom is the European Union at 16.3% of total trade (the US follows with 12.9%, ASEAN with 10.4%, Japan with 9.4% and Hong Kong with 7.5%).  There’s nothing unusual about this change.  It’s what emerging economies with global trade typically do.

China won’t have a free float, however.  Allowable daily currency fluctuations will be limited and the central bank will manage the float by setting the midpoint of the daily trading band.

no dramatic short-term movements

Economists are speculating that the renminbi will appreciate vs. the US$ by one or two percentage points in the coming year.  The People’s Bank is making it clear it doesn’t intend to do more.  And, given that the euro has fallen by about 20% against the euro over the past six months, if China were following its basket rule, it would be depreciating its currency by about 3% against the basket.

market gains today

Nevertheless, China allowed the renminbi to appreciate by .42% against the US$ today, its largest gain in five years.  World stock markets have responded enthusiastically, both to the Chinese announcement and the market action of the currency.

implications for China

As I’ve written extensively in this blog, the standard strategy for developing economies to achieve technology transfer from the developed world is to offer cheap labor.  Japan is the poster child in Asia of this strategy.  The developing country will make sure it retains its labor cost advantage by pegging its currency to that of its target trading partner, usually the US.

In theory, as time passes the developing country begins to allow its currency to appreciate as a way of steering its industry toward higher value-added activity.  This process should at the very least begin before the country runs out of labor and triggers an inflationary wage spiral.  In practice, the newly prosperous labor-intensive industries have enough political clout to preserve the status quo, and their profits, despite the fact that this begins to do long-term economic damage.

One sign that a country is near the point of exhausting the available labor force for a given level of technology–and that currency appreciation is the appropriate response–is when strikes, or other forms of labor dispute, arise and large wage increases result from them.  This appears to be happening in many places in China today.  A political struggle also appears to be occurring between economic planners, who favor a stronger currency, and forces of the status quo, who want to preserve their current position.

The strong financial market response to China’s (so far) modest currency move seems to me to be a sign of relief that events appear to be moving in the right direction.

implications for the US

In one way of looking at things, if a developing country decides to make a continuing massive subsidy to its trading partners by undervaluing the labor content of the goods it sells, the recipients should say a silent “thank you” and keep on accepting the gift.  But doing so on a large enough scale may end up distorting the recipients’ economies.  Put aside (for a later post) the long-term effects of this and for now look at the short term and at the US.

The political drama surrounding trade with China became ritualized in the US during the frequent Congressional hearings on renewing that country’s most favored nation trade status.  Congress would posture for a domestic audience by threatening trade sanctions.  One house or the other would sometimes introduce protectionist legislation, confident that the president would veto it if the bills got that far.

This time around, Senator Charles Schumer of  New York, noted more for his fund-raising from Wall Street than his knowledge of economic history, has introduced a twenty-first century version of the Smoot Hawley tariff law (the one that caused the Great Depression of the 1930s).  Observers have feared that neither Mr. Schumer nor Mr. Obama knows his role in the drama–that Mr. Schumer will push too hard for his bill’s passage and that a weak president will sign it into law.

A second reason for rising stock markets today is the thought that this outcome is now less likely.

implications for stocks

The standard rules apply:  having revenues in an appreciating currency and costs in weaker currencies is the best position to be in.

One other thought–workers who get large raises and who also receive them in an appreciating currency have a lot more purchasing power.  So sellers of euro- or dollar-cost merchandise in China should do relatively well.  Outbound tourism from china should also boom.  The first stop is likely Macau and Hong Kong.  Next comes Japan, then the EU.  As Marriott has recently pointed out, the US may not be a big beneficiary, however.  The government’s anti-terrorism concerns have made it difficult for ordinary Chinese citizens to get a visa to visit.